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Ocean
Watch
Monday, February 14, 2000
Love, trust made
great ports in storm
FOR me, an eternal romantic with a partner of the same
ilk, Valentine's Day is always a good day. Even so, some of these annual
celebrations of togetherness stand out from the others. Here's a good one.
Years ago, Craig and I decided to buy a boat in
Connecticut and sail it to Hawaii ourselves. In many ways, this trip
turned out to be the grand, nautical adventure we expected it to be. But
the journey had an additional challenge to it: We were suddenly forced to
live solely on a 37-foot sailboat for nearly an entire year.
And this wasn't simply a test of getting through the
usual chores of daily living in a tiny space. We had to learn to trust one
other's judgment in potentially life-threatening situations.
Our first trial came on the first day of the trip as we
rounded Long Island's Montauk Point. The area there is notorious for rough
seas and, sure enough, I got so seasick I couldn't even sit up.
Craig was understanding and generously took the helm
for the entire day, the evening and far into the night. Finally, at 3
a.m., he gently shook me awake. "Susan, can you take a watch? I
really need some sleep."
He had been in the bunk no more than 30 minutes when I
began to freak out. The lights of Manhattan seemed to be approaching way
too fast. Worse, Long Island's sandy shoreline loomed large off the
starboard bow, convincing me that any moment we would run aground. Then,
out of the blue, a monster container ship began to bear down on us.
"Craig! Craig!" I called in panic.
He flew up the companionway, his eyes red and puffy
with exhaustion. "What's wrong?"
I showed him the alarming proximity of Manhattan, the
shoreline, the container ship. He looked around, then shocked me by
growling, "Susan, we are miles from land! And that ship is at anchor!"
After that, we both tried harder. Craig, who had a
lifetime of experience on the water, took more time to teach me the
subtleties of sailing. In return, I curbed my tendency to fret.
Over the next 6 months, we learned to respect each
other's right to be silent, restless or melancholy. I practiced shooting
sites with our sextant and got good at it. Craig prowled the boat,
constantly checking, repairing and jury-rigging its systems.
Gradually we made our way down the Intercoastal
Waterway, through the Bahamas and on to Puerto Rico. Things were going
well until we left the Virgin Islands for St. Martin. That night, just as
a storm appeared, leaving us with only a few feet visibility, our
satellite navigation system broke down. Soon, huge waves were breaking
over the deck and we weren't sure where we were.
We braced ourselves and together, in the red light of
our tilted, jolting navigation station, plotted our course, figured
current drift and calculated time to landfall. At each lurch of the boat
during that long night, I worried that we had misconstrued our position
and would crash into a cliff. But I did not mention it.
Hours later, at first light, we spotted the harbor of
St. Martin. And just to the left of it, high and dry on the rocky shore,
lay a large, newly wrecked sailboat, its torn sails flapping in the breeze
like broken wings.
After a hug and a high five, we anchored, then rowed
ashore with our broken SatNav. But to our surprise, all shops were closed,
steel drums reverberated and people were dancing in the streets.
"What's going on?" Craig asked a musician.
"It's Valentine's Day, mon. We are
celebrating!"
It was a great moment and a wonderful party.
Hope your Valentine's Day is as much fun.
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